Region guide
Mtskheta-Mtianeti
- Best time
- Mtskheta and the lower Military Road can be visited all year, best from April to June and September to October. Kazbegi hiking is best from June to September, the road to Shatili is usually open from May or June until October snow, and Gudauri's ski season runs from December to April.
- How long
- 3–5 days
- Places
- 27 in our guide
- Tours
- 27 tours visit Mtskheta-Mtianeti
Mtskheta-Mtianeti runs north from the edge of Tbilisi to the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus and the Russian border. In the south is Mtskheta, capital of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia and the place where Georgia adopted Christianity in the 4th century; its cathedral and monasteries are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, 20 km from Tbilisi. From there the Georgian Military Road climbs the Aragvi valley past Ananuri Fortress, crosses the Jvari Pass at 2,379 m and descends into Kazbegi, where Gergeti Trinity Church stands below the 5,054 m summit of Mount Kazbek.
East of the highway lie Pshavi and Khevsureti, two of Georgia's most remote mountain areas. Khevsureti is reached on a rough road over the Datvisjvari Pass (2,676 m), open only from late spring to autumn, and holds Shatili, a village of joined stone towers, the restored tower village of Mutso and the glacial Abudelauri Lakes. Most visitors combine Mtskheta with a day on the Military Road, or spend two or three nights in Stepantsminda for hikes in the Truso and Juta valleys. In winter Gudauri becomes Georgia's biggest ski resort.
Why visit Mtskheta-Mtianeti
- See Svetitskhoveli and Jvari, the heart of the UNESCO-listed Historical Monuments of Mtskheta
- Drive the Georgian Military Road over the 2,379 m Jvari Pass
- Photograph Ananuri Fortress above the turquoise Zhinvali Reservoir
- Hike from Stepantsminda to Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,170 m under Mount Kazbek
- Walk past travertines and mineral springs in the Truso Valley
- Ski or paraglide in Gudauri, Georgia's largest ski resort
- Sleep in a stone tower guesthouse in Shatili, Khevsureti
- Cross the Chaukhi Pass from Juta to the Abudelauri Lakes
Top things to do in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
Climb to Zedazeni, where Georgian monasticism began
Drive up the forest road from Saguramo to the monastery that St John of Zedazeni founded in the 540s. His disciples left from here to found Shio-Mgvime, David Gareja and other great monasteries, so it pairs well with a visit to Shio-Mgvime on the same day.
Trace ancient Iberia from Armaztsikhe to Svetitskhoveli
Start on Bagineti hill, where the kings of Iberia had their citadel, and look across the Mtkvari to the old capital. Then cross into Mtskheta for Svetitskhoveli and the royal tombs inside it.
Look down on the Aragvi from Jvari Monastery
Stand on the hilltop terrace of the late 6th-century church and watch the Aragvi and the Mtkvari meet below Mtskheta. Go at sunset for the best light, or first thing in the morning for silence.
Photograph Ananuri above the Zhinvali Reservoir
Stop at the viewpoint south of Ananuri for the classic shot of turquoise water and forested hills. Then walk into the fortress and climb its square tower for the same view from the walls.
Swim and picnic at Bazaleti Lake
On a hot summer day, leave the Military Road near Dusheti for this small, shallow lake at 878 metres, where Tbilisi families swim, fish and hire boats. Come on a weekday for a quieter shore.
Eat khinkali in Pasanauri
Break the drive north at the village most Georgians link with khinkali, near where the White and Black Aragvi meet. Order them by the piece and eat them by hand.
Cross the Jvari Pass at 2,379 metres
Drive over the highest point of the Georgian Military Road, stopping at the Friendship Monument and the orange travertine terraces on the northern side. In winter, check the road status before you leave Gudauri.
Hike up to Gergeti Trinity Church
Walk from Stepantsminda through Gergeti village to the 14th-century church under Mount Kazbek in about 1 to 1.5 hours. Start at dawn for clear views of the peak and an empty churchyard.
Trek from Juta over the Chaukhi Pass
Follow the meadow valley below the Chaukhi towers, climb to the 3,340-metre pass and descend past the Abudelauri Lakes to Roshka in Khevsureti. Fit hikers do it in one long day; many camp at the lakes.
Cities, towns & villages
Places to see in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
Suggested itineraries
Mtskheta, Ananuri and Kazbegi in one day from Tbilisi
- Early morning: Jvari and Mtskheta
Leave Tbilisi by 8 am and drive 30 minutes to Jvari for the view, then down into Mtskheta for Svetitskhoveli. Allow about 1.5 hours in total.
- Late morning: Zhinvali and Ananuri
Drive about 50 minutes north on the Georgian Military Road to the Zhinvali viewpoint and Ananuri Fortress, and spend 45 minutes inside the walls.
- Lunch and the high road
Continue 30 minutes to Pasanauri for khinkali, then wind up through Gudauri, pausing at the Friendship Monument, to the Jvari Pass; allow another hour with photo stops.
- Afternoon: Gergeti Trinity Church
Descend 40 minutes to Stepantsminda, where local drivers run visitors up the hill road, and spend an hour at Gergeti Trinity Church under Mount Kazbek. The drive back to Tbilisi takes about 3 hours, so set off by 5 pm.
Three days in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
- Day 1: The old capital and its hills
See Jvari, Svetitskhoveli and Samtavro in the morning, look across the river at Armaztsikhe, and in the afternoon drive about 30 minutes up to Zedazeni Monastery on the Saguramo ridge. Sleep in Mtskheta.
- Day 2: Up the Military Road to Kazbegi
Detour to Bazaleti Lake near Dusheti (about 1 hour from Mtskheta), then continue to Ananuri, Pasanauri and over the Jvari Pass. Reach Stepantsminda in the late afternoon, about 3.5 hours of driving in all.
- Day 3: Gergeti and a valley walk
Hike to Gergeti Trinity Church at sunrise, then take a taxi 20 minutes south to Kobi for an easy afternoon in the Truso Valley, or 15 minutes north to Gveleti Waterfall. Drive back to Tbilisi in about 3 hours.
Mtskheta-Mtianeti at a glance
Mtskheta is a 30 minute hop from Tbilisi, and the Georgian Military Road carries on north past Ananuri and Gudauri to Stepantsminda in about 3 hours by car or Didube marshrutka.
Hiking in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
Getting here: routes
Festivals in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
A mountain pilgrimage from Mleta on the Military Road to St George's church on Mount Lomisi.
Aug 2027 (day to be announced)Shatiloba (Shatili, Khevsureti)A summer festival in the tower village of Shatili, with horse racing, Khevsur music and folk wrestling.
14 Oct 2026Svetitskhovloba (Mtskhetoba)Mtskheta's feast of the Life-Giving Pillar and Christ's robe, a public holiday with a liturgy led by the Patriarch.
Plan your visit
Getting there
Mtskheta is 20 km north of Tbilisi, about 30 minutes by car, with frequent marshrutkas from Didube bus station. The Georgian Military Road continues north to Ananuri (about 70 km), Pasanauri (90 km), Gudauri (120 km) and Stepantsminda (157 km); the drive to Stepantsminda takes about 3 hours without stops, and marshrutkas from Didube take a similar time. Shatili in Khevsureti is about 150 km from Tbilisi but takes 4.5 to 5 hours by 4x4 over the Datvisjvari Pass. Travellers arriving overland from Russia enter Georgia at the Dariali checkpoint, about 12 km north of Stepantsminda.
Getting around
Having your own car or a hired driver makes the Military Road far simpler, because the best stops, such as the Zhinvali viewpoint, Ananuri, Pasanauri and the Friendship Monument, lie between towns. Marshrutkas to Stepantsminda will usually drop you at Ananuri or Gudauri on request. In Stepantsminda, drivers with 4x4s gather on the main square for trips to Gergeti, Juta, Truso, Gveleti and Dariali. For Khevsureti, hire a 4x4 with a driver who knows the road. Snowstorms sometimes shut the Jvari Pass in winter, now and then for several days, so look up the road status before setting off.
Best time to visit
Mtskheta and the lower Military Road can be visited all year, best from April to June and September to October. Kazbegi hiking is best from June to September, the road to Shatili is usually open from May or June until October snow, and Gudauri's ski season runs from December to April.
Where to stay
Food & wine in Mtskheta-Mtianeti
Mtskheta-Mtianeti: frequently asked questions
How far is Kazbegi from Tbilisi?
Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) is 157 km north of Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Road. The drive takes about 3 hours without stops, but most people stop at Zhinvali, Ananuri and the Friendship Monument and take 4 to 5 hours. Marshrutkas from Didube bus station take around 3 hours.
Can you visit Mtskheta as a day trip from Tbilisi?
Yes. Mtskheta is 20 km from Tbilisi, about 30 minutes by car or marshrutka from Didube. Half a day covers Svetitskhoveli, Samtavro and Jvari; Jvari is on a hill across the river, so you need a taxi or car to reach it.
Is the Georgian Military Road open in winter?
It is kept open for most of the winter, but the section over the Jvari Pass near Gudauri can close for hours or days after heavy snow or because of avalanche risk. Check the road status before you go and carry snow chains if driving yourself.
When can you go to Shatili?
Usually the Datvisjvari Pass (2,676 m) opens to traffic in May or June and stays passable until snow shuts it in October. Outside that window Shatili is cut off by road. Use a 4x4 and allow 4.5 to 5 hours from Tbilisi.
Do I need a guide to hike in Kazbegi?
Not for the main day hikes: Gergeti Trinity Church, the Juta valley, the Truso Valley and Gveleti Waterfall follow clear paths. Going onto the Gergeti Glacier, crossing to the Bethlemi hut or climbing Mount Kazbek needs glacier experience or a licensed mountain guide. Carry your passport in Truso and near the border.
Tours that visit Mtskheta-Mtianeti
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