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Region guide

Kakheti

Georgia's wine country, from vineyards to Tusheti

Best time
September and October are best for the Rtveli harvest, warm days and new wine, and May and June bring green vineyards and wildflowers. July and August are hot in the valley but ideal for Tusheti, whose road is usually open only from June to early October.
How long
3–4 days for the valley; add 3–4 days for Tusheti
Places
30 in our guide
Tours
24 tours visit Kakheti

Kakheti is Georgia's easternmost region and its main wine country. The wide Alazani Valley runs along the foot of the Greater Caucasus, planted with Saperavi and Rkatsiteli vines and lined with villages where families still make wine in buried clay qvevri. Telavi, the historic capital, is the best base for the monasteries of Alaverdi, Ikalto and Shuamta, while hilltop Sighnaghi, walled by King Erekle II in 1762, looks across the valley to the mountains. Most sights are two to three hours from Tbilisi, so the region works as a long day trip, but it rewards two or three nights.

Kakheti is bigger and more varied than its vineyards. In the south, the cave monasteries of David Gareja sit in semi-desert on the Azerbaijani border, and Vashlovani National Park has badlands, mud volcanoes and floodplain forest. In the east, Lagodekhi, Georgia's oldest nature reserve, climbs from beech forest to alpine lakes. In the north, a summer-only dirt road crosses the Abano Pass at about 2,850 m into Tusheti, a high pastoral land of stone towers, sheep's cheese and slate-roofed villages that is cut off for much of the year. For wine, come in late September or October for Rtveli, the grape harvest.

Why visit Kakheti

  • Taste Saperavi and amber Rkatsiteli straight from the qvevri in a family cellar
  • Walk the 18th-century walls of Sighnaghi above the Alazani Valley
  • Stand under Alaverdi's 11th-century cathedral, Georgia's tallest church until 2004
  • Visit St Nino's tomb at Bodbe Monastery
  • Hike the ridge above David Gareja to frescoed cave churches
  • Join the Rtveli grape harvest from mid-September into October
  • Cross the Abano Pass by 4x4 to the tower villages of Tusheti
  • Hike to waterfalls in Lagodekhi, Georgia's first nature reserve (1912)

Top things to do in Kakheti

Drink amber wine straight from the qvevri in a village marani

Arrange a visit to a family cellar where the host lifts the lid off a buried clay jar and ladles out Rkatsiteli or Kisi fermented on its skins. These tastings tend to grow into a long table of bread, cheese, herbs and toasts, so book a driver for the evening.

Walk Sighnaghi's ramparts and visit St Nino's grave at Bodbe

Follow the 1762 town wall round the hilltop for long views over the Alazani vineyards to the snowy Caucasus, then walk or drive 2 km down to the convent where Georgia's evangelist is buried. Come early, or stay the night, to miss the midday coach groups.

Loop the great monasteries around Telavi

In one relaxed half day from Telavi you can stand under the 11th-century cathedral of Alaverdi, wander the ruined academy at Ikalto and find the forest churches of Shuamta. All three are free and lie within about 25 minutes of town.

Climb to Gremi and Nekresi, then cool off in the wine tunnel

Gremi's royal church of 1565 and the hilltop monastery of Nekresi both look out over the valley between Telavi and Kvareli. End the day underground in the Kvareli tunnel, where wine is stored at a steady 12 to 14°C.

Hike the border ridge to the painted caves of David Gareja

Begin at the Lavra, where monks still live in rock-cut cells, then climb the ridge to Udabno's cave churches and their medieval murals. The bare, striped semi-desert looks nothing like the green north of the region, so bring water and sun protection.

Explore the steppe and canyons around Dedoplistskaro

Scramble up to the ruined walls of Khornabuji above town, walk into Eagle Gorge, then register for a 4x4 day to the mud volcanoes and floodplain forest of Vashlovani. April and May bring wildflowers and nesting raptors.

Find the two-domed church at Gurjaani and taste Mukuzani

Turn off the highway for Kvelatsminda, an early medieval church with a pair of domes, then try dry Saperavi in a Mukuzani cellar. It is an easy stop between Telavi and Sighnaghi.

Walk to a forest waterfall in Lagodekhi

Georgia's first reserve has marked day trails through beech and hornbeam to the Ninoskhevi and Black Grouse waterfalls. Fit hikers can spend three days reaching Black Rock Lake on the Russian border between June and October.

Ride over the Abano Pass into Tusheti

From June to early October local drivers take 4x4s up the switchbacks of one of the Caucasus' toughest roads to Omalo. Allow at least three nights so you can watch sunset from the Keselo towers and walk between villages.

Trek Tusheti's tower villages from Dartlo to Girevi and Diklo

Walk or ride up the Pirikiti valley past Dartlo and Parsma to Girevi, sleeping in family guesthouses, or head east from Omalo through Shenako to the fortress at Diklo above the gorge. Carry your passport near the border.

Cities, towns & villages

Places to see in Kakheti

Suggested itineraries

Kakheti in one day from Tbilisi

  1. Morning: Ninotsminda on the road east

    Leave Tbilisi by 8:30 and drive about an hour on the main highway to Sagarejo, where the ruined 6th-century cathedral and brick bell tower of Ninotsminda make a short first stop. Then continue roughly another hour through the vineyards to Sighnaghi.

  2. Late morning: Sighnaghi and Bodbe

    Walk a stretch of the town wall and the cobbled lanes, then drive five minutes to Bodbe Monastery to see St Nino's tomb and the cypress gardens above the valley.

  3. Afternoon: a cellar lunch and Gurjaani

    Have lunch and a tasting at a family marani in the lower valley, then drive about 40 minutes north-west to Kvelatsminda church at Gurjaani. From there it is roughly 1 hour 45 minutes back to Tbilisi on the highway.

Three days in Kakheti

  1. Day 1: Tbilisi to Telavi via Ujarma and Shuamta

    If the Gombori Pass road is open (check road status before you set off), drive east past Ujarma Fortress and stop at Old and New Shuamta, reaching Telavi in about 2.5 hours with stops. If it is closed, take the highway via Gurjaani instead. Spend the afternoon at Batonis Tsikhe and the bazaar, and the evening at a family cellar.

  2. Day 2: Monasteries and the north bank

    Start at Ikalto and Alaverdi, 15 to 25 minutes from Telavi, then cross the valley to Gremi, about 30 minutes away, and Nekresi. Finish with a tasting in the Kvareli wine tunnel and sleep in Kvareli or back in Telavi.

  3. Day 3: Tsinandali, Gurjaani and Sighnaghi

    See the Tsinandali palace and gardens in the morning, stop at Gurjaani for Kvelatsminda on the way south, and reach Sighnaghi for lunch, about an hour of driving in all. Walk the walls, visit Bodbe and drive back to Tbilisi in about 2 hours.

Kakheti at a glance

From Tbilisi airport (TBS)95 km · about 2-2.5 h
From Kutaisi airport (KUT)340 km · about 5-5.5 h
From Batumi airport (BUS)480 km · about 7-7.5 h
Main townTelavi
AltitudeBelow 200 m in the lower Alazani Valley to 4,493 m on Tebulosmta in Tusheti; Telavi lies at about 500-800 m
Best monthsMay-June, September-October (harvest); July-August for Tusheti
Days to spend3-4, plus 3-4 for Tusheti days

Telavi is about 2 hours east of Tbilisi over the Gombori Pass (check road status) or 2.5 hours on the longer highway through Gurjaani, and marshrutkas leave Tbilisi for Telavi, Sighnaghi and Kvareli several times a day.

Hiking in Kakheti

All trails →

Getting here: routes

All routes →

Festivals in Kakheti

Full calendar →
30 May 2027 (expected)Zezvaoba (Alvani)

A Tushetian community festival in the lowland village of Alvani, with horse racing and folk music before the move to summer pastures.

2027 date expectedFolkKakheti
10 Aug 2027 (expected)Atnigenoba (Tusheti)

Tusheti's main summer feast cycle at the village shrines, with sheep sacrifice, beer brewing, horse races and song.

2027 date expectedReligiousKakheti
Aug 2027 (day to be announced)Tushetoba (Omalo)

Tusheti's organised summer festival in Omalo: horse racing, folk dance, shepherds' contests and Tushetian cheese.

2027 date expectedFolkKakheti
28 Sep 2027 (expected)Alaverdoba

An old harvest and church festival at Alaverdi Cathedral, with liturgy, songs and wine in the Alazani Valley.

2027 date expectedReligiousKakheti
Season: from early or mid-September into October; start announced each year by the authorities and wineriesRtveli: Grape Harvest in Kakheti

Harvest season in Georgia's main wine region: picking, pressing, qvevri filling and long supras in the vineyards.

2027 date expectedWineKakheti
Sep 2027 (day to be announced)Tsinandali Festival

A classical music festival in the gardens and concert hall of the Chavchavadze estate in Kakheti.

2027 date expectedMusicKakheti
9 Oct 2027 (expected)Gurjaani Wine Festival

Kakheti's biggest one-day wine festival, with hundreds of wineries pouring in a park in Gurjaani after the harvest.

2027 date expectedWineKakheti
Autumn, after the harvest; date announced each yearTelaVino (Telavi Wine Festival)

Telavi's harvest wine festival in the courtyard of King Erekle II's palace.

WineKakheti
7 Nov 2026Erekleoba (Telavi)

Telavi's festival in honour of King Erekle II, born in the town in 1720.

2027 date expectedCityKakheti

Plan your visit

Getting there

Kakheti begins about an hour east of Tbilisi. Telavi is about 96 km from Tbilisi over the Gombori Pass (around 2 hours) or about 156 km on the main highway via Sagarejo and Gurjaani (around 2.5 hours). Sighnaghi is about 113 km away, roughly 2 hours by car. Marshrutkas (minibuses) run from Tbilisi to Telavi, Sighnaghi, Kvareli and Lagodekhi several times a day; departure points change, so check locally. Tbilisi International Airport is the nearest airport with regular international flights. Tusheti is reached only by 4x4 over the Abano Pass from Pshaveli near Kvemo Alvani, a full day's journey from Tbilisi in summer.

Getting around

A car with a driver, or a rental car, is the easiest way to see Kakheti, because most monasteries, wineries and viewpoints lie outside the towns and public transport links only the main towns. Valley roads are paved and easy to drive; the Gombori Pass road is narrower and winding. Taxis in Telavi and Sighnaghi can be hired for half-day or full-day loops to Alaverdi, Gremi, Ikalto or Bodbe. The remote parts of Vashlovani need a 4x4, and for Tusheti most travellers use shared or private 4x4s with local drivers from Kvemo Alvani or Telavi rather than driving themselves. Inside Tusheti, villages are linked by dirt tracks and footpaths.

Best time to visit

September and October are best for the Rtveli harvest, warm days and new wine, and May and June bring green vineyards and wildflowers. July and August are hot in the valley but ideal for Tusheti, whose road is usually open only from June to early October.

Where to stay

SighnaghiWalkable walled town with guesthouses, small hotels and wine bars, valley views and Bodbe Monastery 2 km away.
TelaviThe most central base for Alaverdi, Ikalto, Shuamta, Tsinandali and Gremi, with many family guesthouses that make their own wine.
KvareliA quieter base on the north side of the valley, close to Gremi, Nekresi, the wine tunnel and Kvareli Lake.
Omalo (Tusheti)Tusheti's main village, with the most guesthouses and easy access to Keselo, Shenako and the trails to Dartlo.

Food & wine in Kakheti

Kakheti grows most of Georgia's grapes: Saperavi makes deep reds such as dry Mukuzani and the semi-sweet Kindzmarauli from Kvareli, while the white Rkatsiteli, Kakhetian Mtsvane and Kisi are often fermented on their skins in qvevri to make amber wine. Tsinandali, named after the Chavchavadze estate, is the classic dry white blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane.

MtsvadiPork or lamb skewers grilled over dried vine cuttings, the classic dish of a Kakhetian feast and at its best during the autumn harvest.
ChurchkhelaStrings of walnuts dipped in thickened grape must and dried, made in Kakheti every autumn from the fresh harvest juice.
Tonis puri (shoti)Boat-shaped white bread slapped onto the inside wall of a round clay tone oven; buy it hot from village bakeries and markets.
Tushetian gudaSalty, strong sheep's cheese matured in a sheepskin bag by Tushetian shepherds, served with almost every meal in Tusheti.
Tushetian khinkaliDumplings with thicker dough and a simple lamb or beef filling seasoned mainly with cumin, as cooked in Tusheti's guesthouses.
KotoriA thin, round Tushetian pie filled with unsalted cheese or curd, fried in a pan and brushed with butter.

Kakheti: frequently asked questions

Can you visit Kakheti as a day trip from Tbilisi?

Yes. A typical day trip covers Sighnaghi and Bodbe with a winery stop, or Telavi with Alaverdi, Gremi and a qvevri cellar. Plan on 10 to 12 hours, including 4 to 5 hours of driving. Staying one or two nights lets you visit more cellars and avoid long drives after tastings.

How do I get from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi?

Sighnaghi is about 113 km from Tbilisi, roughly 2 hours by car. Marshrutkas run several times a day, and many day tours include the town. You can also hire a driver for the round trip and add Bodbe and a winery.

When is the grape harvest (Rtveli) in Kakheti?

Rtveli usually runs from mid-September into October, depending on the grape variety and the year. Families pick and press grapes and fill the qvevri, and many guesthouses and wineries welcome visitors to join. Book accommodation early for harvest weekends.

How do I get to Tusheti from Kakheti?

The only road climbs from Pshaveli, near Kvemo Alvani, over the Abano Pass to Omalo, about 70 km of unpaved mountain road. It is usually open from June to early October, and only 4x4 vehicles should attempt it. The usual way up is a shared or private 4x4 driven by a local, and the trip takes about 4 to 6 hours.

Is Kakheti worth visiting if I don't drink wine?

Yes. Kakheti has some of Georgia's oldest monasteries, including Alaverdi, Ikalto, Nekresi and David Gareja, the walled town of Sighnaghi, and the national parks of Lagodekhi and Vashlovani. Tusheti is one of the country's best regions for multi-day hiking, and the food, from mtsvadi to hot tonis puri, is reason enough to come.

Tours that visit Kakheti

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