Lamaria Church
Small medieval church of the Virgin with its own defence tower, on a hill above Ushguli facing the glaciers of Shkhara.
Lamaria ChurchPhoto: Florian Pinel, CC BY-SA 3.0Lamaria Church stands on a low hill at the northern edge of Zhibiani, one of the hamlets of Ushguli, at about 2,100 m. Dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God, it is a simple stone hall church with a Svan defence tower at its west end and a low stone wall around the churchyard. Behind it rises the glaciated wall of Shkhara, making this one of the most photographed views in Georgia. The name comes from the Svan name for Mary, which may have absorbed an older local fertility cult.
Inside, the church is small and dim, with a three-arched stone screen before the altar and faded fragments of frescoes. It is still used for worship, so visit quietly and respectfully. The walk up from the houses of Zhibiani is short. Go early or late in the day for the best light on the tower and mountains, and to find the church at its quietest.
History
Lamaria does not appear in medieval records, but its architecture suggests it was built in the 9th or 10th century, though some sources date it to the 12th. Two layers of wall painting survive, an earlier one from the 10th century and a later one from the 13th century. The Svan tower beside it was built to defend the church and its treasures through centuries of isolation.
What to see and do
- Svan defence tower beside the church
- Three-arched stone chancel screen
- Faded 10th and 13th-century frescoes
- View of Shkhara framed by the church and tower
How to visit
Getting there
Lamaria is a short walk uphill from Zhibiani in Ushguli, which is about 45 km (1.5 hours) by road from Mestia.
When to go
June to October; early morning or evening light. Plan 30–45 minutes here.
- Dress modestly; women usually cover their hair inside Georgian churches.
- Ask before taking photographs inside.
- Combine with a walk through Zhibiani and Chazhashi.
Lamaria Church: FAQ
How old is Lamaria Church?
It is thought to date from the 9th or 10th century on architectural grounds, and its oldest frescoes are from the 10th century. Some sources give a 12th-century date.
Is Lamaria Church part of the UNESCO site?
Lamaria is in Ushguli, whose hamlet of Chazhashi forms the core of the Upper Svaneti UNESCO World Heritage Site. The church itself stands in neighbouring Zhibiani.
Tours that include Lamaria Church
Read more in our guides
Photo: Marcin Konsek, CC BY-SA 4.0What Prometheus Cave, Martvili Canyon, the National Museum, Vardzia, the Tbilisi cable cars and dozens of other sights cost to enter in 2026, with hours, combo tickets and free alternatives.
Photo: Q-lieb-in, CC BY-SA 4.0Four days and roughly 55 km through Svan tower villages: each stage explained, plus the river ford, where to sleep, what to pack and when the pass is clear.
Nearby places
Straight-line distance from Lamaria Church.
