Khertvisi Fortress
One of Georgia's oldest fortresses, on a rocky ridge where the Paravani river meets the Mtkvari, on the road to Vardzia.
Khertvisi FortressPhoto: Jaba1977, improvements by Giorgi Balakhadze, CC BY-SA 4.0Khertvisi Fortress rises on a narrow rocky ridge above the village of Khertvisi, where the Paravani river joins the Mtkvari. It is one of the oldest fortresses in Georgia and guarded the junction of the routes to Vardzia, Akhalkalaki and Akhaltsikhe. The walls you see today date mostly from 1354, while the small church inside goes back to 985. Seen from the road below, the long line of walls and towers following the crest of the ridge is one of the classic images of southern Georgia.
A short, steep path leads up from the road to the gate. Inside you can walk parts of the walls, look into ruined towers and visit the church. The views up and down both river gorges are excellent, especially in the late afternoon. Most people stop for 30 to 60 minutes on the way to or from Vardzia. Take care on the walls, which have few railings.
History
Local tradition dates a first fortress here to the 2nd century BC and says Alexander the Great destroyed it. Written sources mention Khertvisi in the 10th and 11th centuries, when it was the centre of Meskheti, and its church was built in 985. The Mongols damaged it in the 13th century, and an inscription credits Zakaria Kamkamishvili with rebuilding the walls in 1354-1356. The Ottomans held it for about three centuries until 1828, apart from brief recaptures by Giorgi Saakadze in 1624 and Erekle II in 1771.
What to see and do
- Photograph the walls and towers from the roadside below
- Climb to the gate for views over both river gorges
- See the small church inside, built in 985
- Walk sections of the 14th-century walls
How to visit
Getting there
Khertvisi is on the main road from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia, at the turn-off for Akhalkalaki, about 15 to 20 minutes' drive before Vardzia. Marshrutkas to Vardzia pass the fortress.
When to go
All year; late afternoon for light. Plan 30-60 minutes here.
- Wear shoes with grip, as the path and walls are uneven
- Most walls have no railings, so keep a close eye on children
- Combine with Vardzia, Tmogvi and Vanis Kvabebi in one day
Khertvisi Fortress: FAQ
How old is Khertvisi Fortress?
Tradition places a first fortress here in the 2nd century BC, but the oldest dated building is the church of 985. Most of the walls you see today were rebuilt in 1354-1356.
Is Khertvisi Fortress on the way to Vardzia?
Yes. It stands on the main road from Akhaltsikhe to Vardzia, at the junction with the road to Akhalkalaki, so it is an easy stop in either direction.
Tours that include Khertvisi Fortress
Nearby places
Straight-line distance from Khertvisi Fortress.
