Tsughrughasheni Church

Tsughrughasheni is a small domed church on the right bank of the Bolnisistskali river, about 2 km from Bolnisi Sioni in Bolnisi municipality. Built in 1212–1222, it belongs to the same golden age of Georgian architecture as Betania and Pitareti, and it is traditionally attributed to King Giorgi IV Lasha. What makes it special is its decoration: the facades are covered with intricate carved ornament in the Georgian tradition, and its dome is unusually tall for so compact a building. An inscription runs across the western facade.

Compared with the famous churches around Tbilisi, Tsughrughasheni sees very few visitors, so you can study the carvings in peace. The interior may be locked, but the exterior is the main reason to come. Bring a zoom lens or binoculars for the upper details, and come in low morning or evening light, when the carving stands out best. It is a short detour from Bolnisi Sioni and fits easily into a day trip that continues to Dmanisi.

Tsughrughasheni was built between 1212 and 1222, during the reign of Giorgi IV Lasha, son of Queen Tamar, who is traditionally credited as its founder. It is smaller than the comparable 12th- and 13th-century churches of Betania, Kvatakhevi and Pitareti, but has a taller cupola for its size. Its ornament ranks among the finest Georgian stone carving of the early 13th century.