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Barakoni Church

Richly carved 18th-century church on a cliff above the meeting of the Rioni and Lukhuni rivers, near Ambrolauri.

Barakoni ChurchBarakoni ChurchPhoto: G.N., CC BY-SA 3.0

Barakoni Church of the Mother of God stands on a steep cliff above the village of Tsesi, a short drive north-east of Ambrolauri. Below it the Lukhuni River joins the Rioni, and the view down into the two valleys is one of the best in Racha. Built in 1753, it is a single-domed cruciform church of neatly cut stone, richly decorated with carved ornament around its windows and doors and across its facades. It is often described as one of the last important works of medieval Georgian architecture.

The church is a short walk from the road, and the terrace around it is the place to stand for views over the confluence. Look for the inscription on the east facade that names the architect, Avtandil Shulavreli. Barakoni is an active church; if the door is closed, the carved exterior and the setting still justify the trip. It is about 15 minutes from Ambrolauri and easy to combine with Nikortsminda and a wine tasting.

History

Barakoni was commissioned in 1753 by Rostom, eristavi (duke) of Racha, who ruled from 1750 to 1769, and built by the architect Avtandil Shulavreli, whose name appears in an inscription on the east facade. Under Soviet rule the church was closed and desecrated. It suffered minor damage in the 1991 Racha earthquake and was quickly repaired, and it is once again a working church.

What to see and do

  • Carved stone ornament on the facades
  • Views over the Rioni and Lukhuni confluence
  • The architect's inscription on the east facade
  • An easy pairing with Nikortsminda

How to visit

Getting there

Above Tsesi village, about 15 minutes by car from Ambrolauri. A short path leads from the road to the church.

When to go

May–October; late afternoon light. Plan 30–45 minutes here.

Local tips
  • Dress modestly: covered shoulders and knees; women should cover their hair and wear a skirt
  • Late afternoon light shows the carving at its best
  • Take care near the cliff edge
  • Combine with Nikortsminda and Khvanchkara

Barakoni Church: FAQ

Who built Barakoni Church?

It was commissioned in 1753 by Rostom, the eristavi (duke) of Racha, and built by the architect Avtandil Shulavreli, whose name is carved on the east facade.

How far is Barakoni from Ambrolauri?

About 15 minutes by car. The church stands above the village of Tsesi, north-east of Ambrolauri.

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Straight-line distance from Barakoni Church.

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